It's an indisputable fact. Passover, which begins with the first of two familial Seder meals is a wonderful holiday with an inspiring history that commemorates the Jews' exodus out of Egypt. It is a celebration both of freedom and a new start, appropriately coinciding with spring. As Jewish homes throughout the city begin their Passover preparations such as shopping for special foods and holiday wines, and performing the rigorous, ritual spring cleaning of house and pantry, the bustle from community to community is almost palatable.

With a holiday so profoundly historical it seems almost picky to bring up one small flaw which is that the classic Passover main menu is inspiring but Passover desserts are nothing to brag about. When you consider that we are talking about such major miracles as the parting of the Red Sea it may seem somewhat irreverent to quibble about something as silly as dessert.

But undeniable Fact Number Two is that no Passover meal is complete without an edible finale of sweet nibbles. And the sweet nibbles in question must adhere to a unbending standard of Judaic culinary observance. For starters, to symbolize the Jews speedy exit from Egypt - a retreat so hasty there wasn't sufficient time to let the bread the travelers would need rise or become leaven, regular white wheat flour is not permitted.

Nor are some other grains, including rye, corn, spelt, barley and oats. The only "legal" Passover flour is a unfavourable facsimile of wheat flour made from that Passover flatbread mainstay, matzoh.

Matzoh, as in matzoh balls, or matzoh buttered, jammed, or slavered with cream cheese is no hardship, if your family custom permits it. However, using ground up matzoh as a substitute for the typical white baking flour, (coarse matzoh meal for some recipes, a more finely ground version, cake meal, for others) has certain drawbacks. It lacks gluten or body as well as taste, and is characteristically sandy. To this bakery challenge, consider that leaveners such as baking powders and yeast are also out.

Whipped egg whites are the usual tool used if you want cakes that are both leaven and light and thus sponge cakes abound at Passover. The only caution here is that you must either be a pro at whipping egg whites (i.e. have your grandmother's mixer at your disposal or better yet, your grandmother presence) and own a small hen house, adjacent to your garage.

While researching Passover desserts I discovered an old Jewish community cookbook which simply and somewhat unimaginatively listed the cake recipes in numerical order of total count of eggs used, i.e. Five Egg Sponge, Seven Egg Sponge, Ten Egg Sponge and so on, giving but a small sampling of the culinary mentality at work. The inescapable bottom line is that Passover desserts don't generally receive rave reviews - but are blandly tolerated. Clearly, they could use a revamp.

Instead of only relying on bakery marble sponge cakes or store bought mixes (you know the ones - "Includes Own Baking Pan"), consider confections. Confections are little sweet bites - generally squares and candies, what the French charmingly refer to as "petite bouchees".

Commercial confections for the occasion generally include items most of us never would choose to eat during the year - nutty macaroons, toasted coconut-coated marshmallow squares, and the colourful, but inevitable sugar crusted jelly fruit bonbons.

Happily, homemade confections are a bit more inventive. You can struggle with Bubbie Ida's Twelve Egg Sponge cake (which generally works best for Bubbie Ida) and its daunting cholesterol content, another real concern, or opt for the high road with tempting Truffle Brownies, luscious and refreshing Lemon-Lime squares, or make-them-think-you-slaved-all-day Matzoh Candy Buttercrunch. A sugar crusted Cinnamon Nut Mix is addictive, and Honey or Chocolate Dipped Stemmed Strawberries are as eye catching as they are refreshing.

Confections are appealingly quick and easy, offering a much needed respite from culinary complications, and a perfect ending note to a long and elaborate meal. Most of these can be frozen in advance yet taste decadent and fresh at serving time.

If you are a guest at a Seder, Passover confections will make for an appropriate and appreciated homemade gift.

BAKER'S NOTE

Confectionary cups or paper bonbons cups make these treats extra special and professional looking and are available online through companies such as Sweet Celebrations.

Marcy will be happy to answer your baking questions. You can reach her at editors@betterbaking.com