IN THOSE DAYS...IN OUR TIME
LET'S VISIT ISRAEL!
The town of Modi'in lies in the rolling foothills of the Judean Mountains, halfway between Tel Aviv and Jerusalem. To the north are the rocky mountains of Samaria and just south are the fertile Sh'fela lowlands.
Modern Modi'in is so new that it doesn't appear on most maps. The first residents moved in during 1996, it is now home to 30,000 people, and plans to grow into a city of 240,000 with 'clean' industry and wide open green areas. Modi'in is only 15 minutes from Ben Gurion Airport.
Modi'in's commanding position on a strategic road to Jerusalem may be the source of the name Modi'in, meaning "information" in Hebrew. Halfway between Jerusalem's dry, cooler summers and Tel Aviv's hot humidity, Modi'in's weather is comfortable and balanced.
The Maccabean Hasmonean family led a Jewish revolt against Greek Syrian rule in the second century BCE, and founded a dynasty of Judean kings that ruled until Herod (first century). The tombs of the Hasmoneans discovered down the road are just some of Modi'in's archeological riches.
The main streets are named after Israeli valleys: Ayalon Valley Street, Hula Valley Street, Dotan Valley Street etc., while residential streets in east Modi'in are named after Israeli streams and rivers. Building in harmony with the local topography, the rounded shapes at junctions flow with the hilly contours, as many Modi'in buildings are terraced along the hillsides.
Many Modi'in buildings use Jerusalem style stone facing. While concrete ages by crumbling and turning brown, Jerusalem Stone gains character as the rough stones age and weather. The pale pink or yellow stone produces less glare in the bright sun than whitewashed concrete, and is easier on the eye.
Luxurious long lawns run down the center of major boulevards while parks and nature preserves skirt the town. Gardens around many buildings sparkle with lovely flowers or huge brightly colored, delicious smelling vines tumbling over the fence, such as jasmine, passion fruit, honey suckle or morning glory.
Culturally, Modi'in has Purim parades, Passover and Succot marches, book fairs, art shows, Bible quiz, chess tournaments and a spring harmonica concert. Modi'in has 2 Ashkenazic and 2 Sefardic Synagogues, and four more synagogues are presently being built.
Chabad House works to bridge the gap between religious and non-religious communities of Modi'in. It offers aid, clothing and hot meals, study groups, youth activities, Day camps, Holiday awareness, Assemblies and parades.
On Tetora Hill are the remains of a Crusader watchtower, built atop Hasmonean period ruins. The synagogue in the center of the complex is from the Second Temple Period and is similar to synagogues at Masada, Herodion, and Gamla.
Whatever time of year you visit Modi'in, explore the Chanukah story exactly where its heroes lived and died. The Hasmonean Village was reconstructed by Zohar and Naomi Baram, who had found hundreds of Hasmonean period coins, as well as the remains of a wine press, water holes and caves. Using these finds as building blocks, they researched written sources, archaeological material and personal anecdotes to achieve an authentic reconstruction.
A visit to the village begins with actual coin-minting, where visitors make their own Hasmonean or Greek coin. Strength is needed to deal a heavy blow to the heated metal coin to transfer the engraving. The Hasmonean house, built from over one thousand ancient stones that Zohar collected from the hilltop, offers a fascinating glimpse into period life. Vegetables hang out to dry from the ceiling along dried, hollowed pumpkins that served as food containers. The meter-thick stone walls insulate against the elements, warm in winter and cool in summer. The single-room house is separated into living and sleeping areas, with an area for food preparation and storage, though the cooking was done over an open fire outside.
The size of a village was determined by the amount of wheat that could be grown, and here, the field could sustain a community of thirty to forty houses. Zohar plants and harvests wheat in the field and you may find yourself helping him scythe the wheat for harvest.
The seven Biblical species all grow on this hilltop, providing part of the villagers' diet and livelihood. Olive trees supply the ancient olive press on site. Visitors can try moving the heavy circular stone press, and those who visit after Succot can join the olive harvest. Once the olives have been pressed, they are transferred to sacks weighed down by large stones to extract the oil.
Zohar renovated the original winepress he unearthed, and summer visitors can collect grapes from the vines and then trample barefoot to extract the juice. Visitors can draw water from six-meter-deep holes, large enough to store the winter rains through the dry season.
In the reconstructed Beit Midrash, a school and synagogue, visitors can write ancient Hebraic script using a quill and ink made from pomegranate peel, olive oil, charcoal and wood sap.
You can follow up in the nearby picnic and recreation sites in Ben Shemen Forest. Call ahead to book a guided tour in English.
A park in Modi'in
Modi'in street: walking in the Maccabees' footsteps
Rabbi Boruch Slonim lights public menorah at Chanukah's birthplace
Music at Modi'in's Chabad day camp
Tombs of the Maccabees
Serving Chanukah doughnuts to soldiers