Cooking with Oil

All too often, in all the excitement of the Hanukah holidays, we forget the one thing we should be remembering: The miracle of that meager amount of oil that should not have lasted through the night in fueling the lights of the Menorah but, instead, lasted for eight days.

This is why the Jews of Eastern European descent eat “latkas,” or “potato pancakes.” The oil in which these pancakes are fried commemorates that oil that had lit the Menorah. Potatoes are used with the oil because potatoes were cheap, and easily obtained by our poor East European ancestors. Israelis use the oil in doughnuts, and the Italian Jews use it to fry chicken.

Here we have a recipe for a potato pancake--perhaps one should call it a “cake“ or a “pie”--that is generous with oil, but it still is not a latka as we understand the word “latka.”

In fact, this potato dish is far easier to prepare than the latka, simply because the potatoes do not need to be grated, then held in cold water and, finally, drained, as the classic latka recipe requires. Any cook who’s ever cut her hand grating potatoes--and a food processor simply does not deliver the correct texture--will feel that this simplification is a wonderful improvement.

It is recommended, if possible, that olive oil be used, as it has a fuller and richer taste than vegetable.
To clear some confusion, the calorie count is the same for all fats, and neither olive oil nor pure vegetable oil contain any saturated or transfats, which are the dangerous forms of edible fat; hence, both of these recommended oils are cholesterol-free.

A latka is completely submerged in a vat of hot oil for cooking; this technique is called “deep-frying.” The potato cake here, however, is cooked in far less fat, and at a lower temperature than is used for deep-frying. It is not submerged in the fat--each side must be cooked separately. Though many people might also call this method “frying,” it is actually a “sauté.”

There are variations of this potato cake. Some recipes recommend including garlic, or Worcester sauce, or bell peppers, or tomato puree. All this is overkill, however, for a recipe that is pretty near perfect as it is.

There is a version, however, in which beef is added to the dish. The name used for this concoction is “Red Flannel Hash,” as some cooks insist that the finished product looks like red flannel. With some bell pepper included, too, this becomes a main dish in one pan. A few recipes even top the beef version of the potato cake with a poached egg!

The key to this recipe, however, is to keep it uncomplicated. Potatoes, onions, oil, salt and pepper, that’s all. Just make sure that the onions are well-browned, as this caramelizing process greatly enhances the flavor of the finished result.

To make it even more special for serving, this potato cake can be topped with smoked salmon and sour cream, and a bit of fresh dill for garnish.

It’s still a potato pancake, it’s still cooked with plenty of oil, it’s still Chanukah. It’s just not a latka. Yet it is delicious, so enjoy!

Hash Brown Potato Cake

– salt, for boiling potatoes
– 2 pounds, approximately, Idaho potatoes, peeled and cut into 1/2 inch diced pieces
– 1/2 cup vegetable oil, preferably olive oil, more if using bell peppers
– 2 large onions, peeled and cut into 1/2 inch diced pieces
– salt and ground pepper, to taste

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F. Lightly oil a cookie sheet.

Fill a large pot with salted water and bring it to a boil. Parboil the potatoes approximately 5 to 6 minutes. Drain the potatoes and transfer to a large bowl. Allow to cool to room temperature.

Meanwhile, gently heat 5 tablespoons of the oil in a large, non-stick skillet. Add the diced onion and cook over medium heat until the pieces are a dark caramel color but not burnt, about 15 minutes. Cool the onions, then mix with the potatoes.

Add half of the remaining oil to the large non-stick skillet. Place over medium heat, and add half the potato/onion mixture.

Pack the mixture tightly in one tight layer to saute and brown it. Using the back of a spoon, form the potato and onion mixture into a rounded cake. When the potatoes and onions begin to adhere to the bottom of the pan and start to brown, flip them over using a large spatula.

Brown the second side, then transfer the hash-browned potatoes to the cookie sheet and reserve while cooking the remaining potato/onion mixture.

After the second batch is placed on the cookie sheet, put the sheet in the oven and bake for 10 minutes. Remove from the oven, season with the salt and pepper, and serve.

Yields 4 – 6 servings.

	Red Flannel Hashed Brown Potato Cake These additions turn the potato cake into a one-pan main dish. 1 bell pepper, preferably a red bell pepper, seeded and julienned (optional) 1 pound of cooked roast beef OR cooked corned beef, shredded or diced After the onions have been sauteed, but before the potato cake is formed, add another tablespoon of oil to the pan. Heat gently and add the strips of bell pepper. Cook for about 3 minutes before adding to the potato and onion mixture in the bowl. Proceed with the recipe. If adding the meat, stir it into the potato/onion/bell pepper mixture before proceeding with the recipe. Top the Red Flannel Hash Brown Potato Cake with a poached egg, if desired.

Note: The pototoes and onions can be cut in any manner a cook desires, but these small, even pieces hold up better for shaping into the "cake."