Caponata

By Judith Segal

Feasting with Esther

People are often vegetarian due to health concerns, such diets being free of cholesterol and higher in fiber. Purim's Queen Esther, however, became vegetarian because it allowed her to keep kosher in Ahasuerus' palace.

Every cuisine has vegetarian dishes, but no country offers such recipes more delicious than Italy.

Much "Italian cooking" actually stems from specialties brought to Rome by Jews taken as slaves after Israel's destruction. Even today, two thousand years later, in the neighborhood founded by freed Jewish slaves on the Tiber's banks, the best delicacy in Trastevere's restaurants is "Carciofi Giudia," literally, "Jewish Artichokes." Any Italian recipe with the word "Giudia" ("Jewish") or "Ebraica" ("Hebrew") was obviously born Jewish.

Until the 19th Century, Italy was a chain of city states, so each region's foods are distinctive, influenced by ingredients available locally.

Even out of Rome, one finds classic "Jewish" recipes. "Livorno" is a seaside city on the west coast of Tuscany, with a rich Jewish history. At the invitation of its Duke, Livorno became a haven to scores of families fleeing the Inquisition. For centuries, those Jewish families received official protection.

One of Livorno's popular recipes is Fish Fillets Livornese, a Jewish dish. "Roschette," originally a Passover cookie, is now enjoyed year-round in Livorno.

Anyone interested in Jewish history combined with a love of Italian food will like the lively writing, fascinating history and marvelous recipes in these two books: The Classic Cuisine of the Italian Jews by Edda Servi Machlin and Cucina Ebraica by Joyce Goldstein.

This toothsome "Caponata" sidedish is made of eggplant, and some consider the concoction to have Jewish origins. This recipe is parve, but it is wonderful with almost any entrée: steak, chicken, fish fillets, as a topping for pizza--with or without grated cheese--or with pasta.

Since all its ingredients are Mediterranean, Queen Esther may have tasted something similar. If she did, it was certainly fit for a Queen!

Caponata

28 ounce can of imported tomatoes

2 medium-large eggplants, skinned, cut into cubes of 1/2 inch

salt, approximately 2 tablespoons

1/2 cup olive oil, approximately, more as needed

2 medium-large "Spanish" onions, coarsely chopped

8 medium cloves of garlic, minced, or more, to taste

6 ounce can of tomato paste

1/2 cup imported black olives, pitted and coarsely chopped

2 tablespoons dried oregano

3 tablespoons wine vinegar

2 teaspoons sugar

1/2 cup raisins, optional

salt, ground black pepper and hot pepper flakes to taste

Caponata is used as a relish or a sidedish, with eggplant as its principal ingredient. Like most homemade favorites, there are as many versions of Caponata as there are cooks.

Many Caponata variations contain celery, but celery is not common in Southern Italy. Almost certainly, the celery stands in for fennel root, which is indigenous, and is one of those vegetables considered by Italians to be "Jewish."

Some recipes include bell peppers, found in the region, but the skins of these peppers ruin the smooth texture of the relish. Cooks who wish to add bell peppers would do well first to remove their peels, and the tomatoes should be peeled as well. Some people add sugar and some add anchovies; others add salty ingredients, such as capers plus assorted olives. At times, "pignoli" nuts also are used, but these, too, disrupt the smoothness of the spread.

Drain the eggplant before sautéing to rid the vegetable of its bitter natural liquid. Draining also prevents the eggplant from soaking up too much oil during cooking. The tomatoes, if fresh, should be peeled and seeded, and even canned tomatoes should be seeded.

Reduced to the basics, the essence of Caponata is eggplant cooked in good olive oil, well-sauteed onion slices, some tomato paste, garlic and, perhaps a sprinkling of raisins. The texture should be smooth and unctuous, almost emulsified, from the oil and the tomato paste. That's all there is to it!

Yet cooks who want more crunch should add the pignoli nuts, and those who seek more bite can add the capers, green olives and hot pepper flakes. The recipe that follows makes a spread that's both smooth and sweet. The quantity of garlic has been understated, so be sure to adjust these ingredients to taste.

Drain the canned tomatoes in a sieve. As much as possible, remove loose seeds. Set tomatoes aside in a bowl.

Cut up the eggplant and place in the sieve put on top of a bowl. Sprinkle with about 1 tablespoon of the salt. Toss. Wait 10 minutes and sprinkle with the remaining salt. Toss again. Allow to drain another 10 to 20 minutes.

In a large skillet, preferably non-stick, heat 2 tablespoons of the oil. Gently warm the oil. Add the chopped onion and sauté until translucent. Add the garlic and sauté another 3 minutes. Do not allow the garlic to brown, though the onions can start to turn golden. With a slotted spoon, remove this mixture to a medium-large baking dish.

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F.

Place the sieve with the eggplant under cold running water and rinse off the salt. Transfer the eggplant cubes to towels--paper towels work fine here--and squeeze them to dry them, and to drain off their liquid.

If necessary, add more oil to the skillet. Heat the oil gently and put the eggplant cubes into the skillet, working in batches if space limitations require. Use moderate heat, stirring frequently, until the eggplant starts to turn golden, 3 to 5 minutes. Remove to the baking dish with the slotted spoon.

In the skillet, add the drained tomatoes, the can of tomato paste, the olives, the oregano, the vinegar and the sugar, as well as the raisins if desired. Mix well and cook together over medium-high heat for about 2 minutes, stirring constantly.

Pour this mixture over the vegetables in the baking dish. Toss well.

Bake, covered, for 15 minutes. Stir and baked covered for 15 minutes more.

Allow to cool and taste to correct seasonings. Add salt, pepper and hot pepper flakes if desired.

May be served hot or cold. Makes approximately 1 quart.